Jewellery has always been such a strong expression not only in terms of aesthetics and class but also in terms of beliefs, identity and cultural values. All over the world, traditional jewellery has been at the very heart of the life of a female population- adorning them with the pieces that declare the genealogy, spirituality and personal achievements. The history of wearable jewellery among women is very long and interesting starting with simple beads and leading to highly elaborated manual designs.
This article discusses the history of the traditional jewellery, how it has evolved over a period of time and how some of traditional jewellery like the Indian jewellery, handmade jewellery and shell or seashell jewellery are still present and prominent in the contemporary world.
History of jewellery started way back in 100,000 years ago. Prehistoric grave findings of early archaeologists indicate the use by early men of such items as bones, feathers, animal teeth and shells to use as body decorations. They would commonly be used in necklaces, bracelets, or headpieces and they were not mere ornamentation, but they were also indicators of status, defense, and possibly even a means of interacting with nature or the supernatural.
Ornamentation One of the first known signs ofShell jewellery was used during the Stone Age. An example of this is the cowrie shell, which appeared in most African, Asian, and European graves and settlements and is usually linked to fertility, female fecundity, and finances.
With the development of the civilisations, the technique of jewellery production was advanced as well. Roman, Ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and the Indus Valley civilization (present-day India and Pakistan) created incredible preserves of the fashioned jewellery in gold, lapis lazuli, turquoises and beads. Egyptian queens wore heavy collars and Crowned heads and Sumerians priestesses decorated ears with kingly earrings and armlets.
The relationship that India has with jewellery is one of the richest and deepest. Jewellery worn by women of the sub continent has strong origin in spiritual world, feminity and royal heritage. The first Indian jewellery can be dated as far as to the Indus Valley Civilization (c. 33001300 BCE), when archaeologists succeeded in finding gold bangles as well as bead and terracotta ornaments.
With the development of Indian society over the Vedic era, one of the Maurya dynasties, the Gupta Empire and the Mughal era, the jewellery became an art form and artwork. New motifs, materials, and meanings were brought into each era. Jewellery was worn by the rulers (kings and queens) as packets of strength, and was involved in the decoration of gods in temples commissioned by ostentatious temples in gold ornaments which later became inspirations of bridal and ceremonial designs.
Temple jewellery that was made using gold and worn by classical dancers such as Bharatanatyam dancers became synonymous and popular in South India. The North gave birth to Kundan and Polki jewelry which combined precious stones on the background of lavish gold set. In the interim, such areas as Gujarat and Rajasthan produced Meenakari, a form of enameling, which made metals surfaces on which color played.
The fact that Indian jewellery carries with it an aspect of identity and occasion is what has made it especially durable. Every jewel, whether mangalsutra or nose ring or anklet is associated with a particular celebration in life or some sort of ritual. As of now, Indian brides are still decorated with jewellery sets symbolising health, wealth, fertility, divine blessings.
Jewellery-making is an inter-generational art. Until the advent of machines and mass production all jewellery was hand made jewellery and carefully hand crafted by expert jewellery artisans. Within each society, artisans invented new ways to work materials such as hammering and engraving, bead-weaving and wire-wrapping.
The handmade jewellery has always been of great significance Not only is it beautiful, but full of love, time and intention to every product created. To the families in India, jewellery-making was their trade which had been inherited over decades of generations, mostly at home-based workshops. These craftsmen are still present today and they make everything in Odisha up to the filigree earrings as well as tribal silver cuffs in Himachal Pradesh.
Outside India there were countries where handmade techniques became very prosperous Africa, South America, and Southeast Asia. Handcrafted Beaded Maasai necklaces, Mayan jade pendants and Balinese silver rings are some of the examples of traditional handcrafted excellence.
Handmade jewellery has returned with a great zeal in the contemporary world. Clients are increasingly aware, demanding uncommon, environmentally-responsible and fair-trade jewelry. When one selects handmade it is helping to generate income to the local artisans, sustaining centuries-old methods and building an investment in something that is unique indeed.
The first jeweller is nature because before precious stones and metals were prevalent, nature existed. The seashell jewellery and Shell jewellery are one of the oldest known styles of ornamentation-which were worn by seafaring people-people of the coasts and early civilizations.
Shells are important spiritually and ritually in India. The shankha (conch shell) is worshipped in Hinduism and played during ceremonies and rituals of the temple. Women have worn Cowrie shells to symbolize wealth and protector of Goddess Lakshmi. The women of Odisha, Assam and Bengal used to wear shell jewellery on harvest festivals and on religious occasions.
Mother-of-pearl was utilized by Polynesian cultures in producing ceremonial necklaces in other parts of the world and some Pacific Islanders thought that some shells could ward off harmful spirits. Shells were used by the Native American tribes to make beaded chokers and breastplates which were sometimes symbol of status or power of a person.
Nowadays seashell jewellery has claimed its niche in bohemia fashion, summer clothes, and environmentally friendly fashion style. Raw or polished shells are being seamlessly integrated into stylish accessories by designers either accompanied by recycled metals, beads or cords to give them a fusion look which is organic and artistic as well.
Ancient jewellery tended to contain symbolism of a religious or social character, but the Renaissance and the Victorian periods brought about new interpretations of the jewellery. Jewellery in Europe took the form of love, grief and royalty. Popularity of the lockets, brooches, and engravings on a ring emerged; this included miniature portraits, strands of hair, or sometimes messages that could be messages.
Industrial Revolution in jewellery brought about jewellery that became affordable and accessible, created by machines. During this period, mass production started; as it democratized jewellery, it drove most of the traditional crafts towards obsolescence.
The revival of cultural and hand drawn jewellery is however witnessed in the 20 th and 21 st century. With the desire to find more authenticity, sustainability and uniqueness in what they wear, the traditional styles are undergoing a powerful rise.
The women of today are proudly representing heirloom items,═ Canadians are impressed with the tribal jewellery and are taking up to the shells and seashell jewellery due to the meanings attached to them cases and the ecologically friendly status. On the coming together of the old and the new has opened the gate to jewellery with a story to tell, and about the ancestors and about the self.
The history of historical jewellery can be characterized by the overview of humanism and values and relationship that people have with the world of nature around them. Whether it is raw beauty of shell jewellery that were worn by early humans or the sheer pomp of Indian jewellery in royal courts, or the humane touch where handmade jewellery passes among the generations, jewellery has a lot to say about the history.
Jewellery has held much more significance in the life of women than being ornamental. It has been used to show coming-of-age experiences, has been used to tell stories of love and loss, a connection to the divine, natural, and family.
Traditional jewellery has been complementing the world even in the modern fast moving world of technology. It streams, it changes, it transforms, but its soul never dies. Designing ready-to-wear to last lifetimes and creating everything around the floral theme, women jewellery is one of the timeless expressions of individuality.
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